AT in Retro - 365 days wiser: Day 31 - May 1st - Hot Springs

We are staying at Ducket House B&B - a grand old two storey timber house, with antique furniture, and a blue heeler called Jack. Quite a few blue heelers in the US. Breakfast was an amazing experience - back to a food conversation again. Our second zero (non-walking day) in 31 days. We get to sleep in, and have a yummy breakfast served by the host. Huge home-made scones which are called biscuits, a quiche from fresh eggs - anacondas are the chickents. Enjoying the luxury and our first real rest day on the trail.

Today is May 1 - we have been on the trail now for 30 days. I have lost 9 lbs - which I think is about 4 kilos, and keeping up my trousers with a piece of cord. My boots have destroyed themselves - the left sole separated from the upper about 5 days ago. The boot still let me make it to Hot Springs to buy a new pair. In the Outfitters at Hot Springs I have bought new boots, new parka, new torch headlight. The rigours of the trail put our old gear under stress and it collapses. The new boots are a size bigger than the old ones - hopefully this will stop the numbness on my second toe on the left foot which has been a problem.

We go back to the Outfitters and spend more money. For 30 days I have worn my boots, and have no other footwear - tricky when you have wet boots and there is nothing to change into at the end of the day. I decide to buy a pair of crocs - but these are not normal crocs - they are the original brand that crocs were copied from, and much more expensive BUT they weigh 200 gms less - so I spend $30 on a pair. They change my life. I can now divest my feet from my boots when I arrive at camp. These 'crocs' are still an integral part of my life one year later. I wear them every day.

Food has become fuel - and when we hit town, all we can think about is what food we are going to eat. Last night a bottle of champagne (from Italy) and a large steak, served with caramelised onions, blue cheese sauce with potato mash and sweet potato as well. The restaurant actually had a wine list. I have drunk an ice-cream soda - remember the Patty Duke show on TV in the 60s, they used to drink ice cream sodas at the drug store. A long tall glass and inside is lemonade, chocolate syrup, icecream, and topped off with whipped cream, drunk with a straw. So much fat in it, and my body craves it.

There are hikers everywhere in town. We have mushroom burgers and the bar in town, and then later eat strawberry and rhubarb pie at the Smoky Mountain Diner. This is legendary. We have no luck experiencing the 'hot springs' as the baths are all booked out.

We notice that there are a lot of 'poor' houses on the edge of town, with loads of junk and rubbish outside. We walk past on our way into town and on our way out of town. We relax on the veranday and watch a neighbour ploughing a sorghum patch in front of the house to produce sugar using old pioneering techniques.