Day 23 - Derrick Knob Shelter - Clingmans Dome - Mt Collins Shelter - 13.5 miles

The highlight of today is clocking over our first 200 miles of the trail, and climbing Clingmans Dome. This is the longest day on the trail for us so far.

We lunch at Double Springs Shelter with Food Network - his boots are in an appalling state, held together with duct tape, the basic tool of the hiker. He is not feeling good, with numb muscles and decides to take a break here. He has managed to make a call on his mobile phone to ensure that new boots will be ready for him in Gatlinburg, but there is a weekend between him and his boots. He is in no rush. We are sad to leave him behind, as he is a great entertainer. 

The final climb to the summit ridge of Clingmans Dome

It is a steady climb up to the dome. There are great views from the top - the highest point on the AT, at 6643'. There are no tourists on the tower as the road is closed for repair. coming up from the tourist car park is Stickbuilt - he is not happy. The signpost marking the trail to the summit has been turned around and he has followed it downhill for a mile, and then realised his mistake and retraced his steps.

Clingmans Dome Tower

The Clingmans Dome tower is a space ship design and makes us feel like aliens from another planet - no people, dead trees - and silence. Except for Tater Chip calling for Stickbuilt. The call echoes out over the forests.

Dead conifers caused by air pollution from Tennesse coal fired power stations

Tripper and Wizard at the summit

Descending from the summit on the northern side away from the sun, we experience our first snow drifts. We don't know it at the time, but the weather is deteriorating, and in a few days the Smokies will be covered in snow, with many hikers unprepared for the cold, wet conditions

Snow drift - our first snow in USA

We are totally exhausted by the time we reach the shelter which is half a mile off the trail, which makes it even worse, knowing that we have to retrace our steps back to the main ridge. It feels like a lot more than half a mile.

At the shelter we meet our first ridge runner, 'Flying Squirrel', a small muscley young woman whose real name is Kerry. We meet her again in Vermont, supervising an all female track building team, but that is a long way in the future.

The weather report is for bad weather. Two section hikers at the shelter decide to abort their hike and offer their pancake mix and accoutrements to the through hikers. Through hikers never turn down an offer of food on principle - we are always hungry! Digby makes pancakes for 10 people using the lid of his cooking pot, and served with honey, oil and strawberries. There is no snoring in the shelter that night - amazing.